Affichage des articles dont le libellé est cultural. Afficher tous les articles
Affichage des articles dont le libellé est cultural. Afficher tous les articles

samedi 3 avril 2010

Russian Orthodox Church prepares for Easter


The Baikonur church actively prepared on Saturday 3/4 for the important Orthodox Feast tomorrow: Пасха. At the church entrance, on the right, the typical bread for Easter is on sale. Some pieces are bought and put as offers on the altar inside the church.

When entering the church, above the entrance door, a poster widely says: Христос Воскресе: Christ is resurrected.

In Russian language, the word resurrection (Воскресение) has been extended to the meaning of the 7th day of the week: so Воскресение means both Sunday and Resurrection. In French and Italian, Sunday is the day of the "Master'' based on the Latin root "Dominus", while in English and German it is the day of the Sun...
If the origin of the Russian population comes from Northern Europe, the religion has come from the South West and Greek Orthodox influence (Constantinople) in particular. The Cyrillic alphabet (based partly on the old Greek alphabet) has been created by the two Greek brothers Cyril and Methodius in the IXth century to translate (parts of) the Bible into Old Church Slavonic language. Note for instance the similarity between the Greek and the Russian spellings for the word Christ (Khristos): Χριστός in Greek and Христос in Russian...
Icon of Saint Cyril/Kirill/Кирилл holding the "Slavic"alphabet.

The outcome of all these efforts was the conversion of the Slavic people in the south to Christianity. Vladimir I of Kiev adopted the Byzantine Rite Christianity in 988, and later on Russia converted to the "Orthodox Christianity". Russian Orthodox Church is the main religion in Russia today.

Inside the church, a small shop sales candles, small icons, sorted by names, explaining the life of the saints, Easter chocolate (with the Baikonur St George church picture on the packaging), rings, crosses...
Everything is ready for the long Easter ceremony that will start this evening.
The grave of the Christ is well materialized and still covered with a mourning cloth,

In the afternoon, a young boy rehearses loudly the long texts (litanies?) he will have to read during the ceremony..., in the meantime, few people pray in the church, make offerings and lighten candles.

What is striking (for us) leaving the church is the size of the tank of "blessed water, which is drunk by quiet of a few of the attendees at the end of the mass.

The Easter ceremonies will start on 3/4 at 22:30 to end on 4/4 at 16:00.

vendredi 26 mars 2010

Spices in space city

For centuries westerners have deployed all kinds of imagination, intelligence and resources to get spices from the Far East. As a side effect of the "spice race", Columbus looking for India discovered the American continent. Value of spices was so high in the west that, the devastated Victoria, the only ship left from the Magellan's fleet afer a first around of the world trip made the expedition (quasi) profitable when she came back to Spain in 1522 with a payload of only few containers of spices!
As the main country of central Asia is Kazakhstan a key player today in the spice trade? Is Baikonur not only a space but also a "spice" city?
Let's go to the central market to try to get an answer.
The first thing that will strike a visitor there will be the vivid colours of the spice stand more than the abundance. The second step to understand what is for sale requires a bit more of investigation.

On the picture below, the largest container on the left, contains a special mixture of spices (Cumin, barberry, tomato powder...) needed for the preparation of the most popular Kazakh dish: the "Plov", a (mild) spicy rice dish with beef. A variant is known as " Pilav rice" in Europe.
Then, let's go into more details and describe what will be found on his shelf:
Fist bottom row of bags (from left to right, RU/GB/F)
Second row (from left to right, RU/GB/F)Third row (from left to right, RU/GB/F)Last row (from left to right)
  • Soft red pepper (ground)
  • Hot red pepper (ground)
  • Tomat= powder of dried tomatoes

The picture below shows few more spices (from left to right, RU/GB/F):

Here under from left to right:

Some chilli (hot) peppers are available as well from time to time on the market.
Note fresh saffron packed top right of the red chilli

This short inventory of the Baikonur market is certainly not exhaustive from what can be found in Kazakhstan but shows the Kazakhs taste for spicy and aromatic food. Local people seem for instance to highly value different kinds of peppers. However most of these spices are well known and used today in the western countries. To that respect, Kazakhstan does not look to be the Ali Baba's cave of the spices as we could imagine it is in India or Thailand.

Anyway, to slightly "spice" our CryoSat-2 daily routine, Bill just brought back from Holland some Sambal to make our lunch sandwiches more tasty ;-)

mardi 23 mars 2010

Baikonur or the "Open Air Museum"

Icons, sculptures, models, paintings are present everywhere in Baikonur.
The purpose they deserve is two fold:
  • to keep the memory of all what contributed to write space history since 1955
  • and not to forget that Baikonur lays is in Kazakhstan, a country with secular traditions and culture.
Art is so well integrated in the street landscape that the visitor does feel to be in an "open air museum", except may be for those who live here the whole year...

Looking closer, one will be amazed by the wide range of art styles and techniques which cohabit in the city:
A.A Maximov 1923-1990, on A.A. Maximov street (fragment)
  • The Stele of Science and Cosmos or the statue of Lenin on his pedestal are good examples of former Soviet "official art" : A mixture of figurative and allegoric representations, always large and massive, carrying a socio-political message.
Lenin statue on Lenin square
  • A last category of works is more difficult to define because it may appear more simple, less homogeneous, and using less sophisticated/costly techniques. This "spontaneous art", even if this denomination is not fully satisfactory, strikes anyway by its originality and power of expression: A mixture between church icons and comic strips... How to make that a simple rocket, a spacecraft or an astronaut in his spacesuit become suddenly a piece art? This, in fact, has been made possible in Baikonur by the talent of anonymous (?) artists. Their remarkable works, as it will be seen here after, are spread all over the city...
The first striking master piece may be the huge mosaic that welcomes visitors entering the city coming from the commercial airport: A flying astronaut, stares at you, with stretched arm in horizontal position like aircraft wings. This monument was erected for the 50th anniversary of Baikonur.
(fragment)

Credits: Andrei
Mosaic technique is also used on the Abai wall (Abai Monument on the Abai Prospekt) in the city. Here under are represented traditional scenes of the Kazakh daily life: Mother and child, Kobuz player, agriculture...
(fragment)


A last example on the west facade of the "Pioneers"Palace next to the St george church.
(fragment)

Another technique is the painting over the wall or concrete. The space "ballet" of these 2 supple cosmonauts around the planet is superbly drawn rendering remarkably the feeling of weightlessness.
(on Titov street)

Large painted panels cover some facades on the Arbat, the pedestrian shopping street of Baikonur. Here under a cartoon-like space odyssey between stars and comets...

This other remarkable painting below on the Korolev Prospekt could deserve a special note on its own. Numerous items, mixing rounded and orthogonal lines, are this time fully integrated in a single composition: the fusion of Kazakh culture with modern technology? The yellow and blue colours look like a photographic negative: Alternation of days and nights or natural balance between life on Earth and the Cosmos? ...A new harmonious world is under construction.

Carved wall or plaster is also a technique used at several places in the city. The quality of the workmanship may vary from place to place. The one below is likely not the most refined, but who cares.... This interesting work may have been carried out by some workers of the RPB factory (located just behind the energy plant) at the time of the Soviet Union (?). Here again, the carved material use a language close to the "squares" of a comic strip. This patchwork represents all technological achievements made by this company. A way also for the artists to express their pride and to contribute to the fame of the (CCCP) regime at the time.

The same technique is used here with a better workmanship. This "wall" officially commemorates the renaming of the city of Baikonur in 1995. It addresses this time the soviet lunar programme (Lunokhod), Buran and the space exploration.
(fragment)

Coming back to the Abai monument, this carved or molded wall very nicely captures the main features of the Kazakh daily life (as the mosaic mentioned above).

A close up
-on the traditional Golden Eagle (Беркут) hunting,

-or here on the camel caravans crossing Kazakhstan. The old "silk road" was far more in the south of the country, but a northern bifurcation heading to Moscow and Finland, may have passed along the Syr Daria not very far from Baikonur...

These examples picked up at random are certainly not exhaustive of the ART found in the Baikonur streets but just show how extraordinary rich is the patrimony of the space city.
Most of these remarkable works are not signed, and likely carried out by anonymous artists. The omnipresence of this "popular art'' makes walking in Baikonur extremely pleasant.
This Art is fragile and certainly suffers from the cold conditions of the place. Some pieces are becoming old and start to need a serious "lifting". It would be a piety that such a priceless memory would vanish.

vendredi 19 mars 2010

Housing in the "new city"

The Real-Estate in Baikonur belongs to the Public sector (Russian State, City Council...?). As no privatisation progammes have taken place since the collapse of the Soviet Union, apartments are rent and maintenance is under the responsibility of the local authorities.
No Real-Estate agencies can be see in town. No advertising in the local newspaper supports a private housing market.
Therefore, like in many urban places in Russia, building blocks for habitation look in average, compared to our Western standards, in extremely poor conditions. Particularly for the eldest ones that have been constructed in the early 60 ies, more precisely between 1958 and 1968 at the time the city was still a settlement called "Leninskii settlement".
Here under is an example of a poorly maintained habitation.
Location: on Korolev Avenue, 200m away to Hotel Sputnik.

But of course all habitation blocks are not in these devastated conditions.
Two official companies in Baikonur are in charge of construction and renovation today.
Recently, new habitation blocks have been constructed

Credits: Raphael
while other have been renovated providing to Baikonur inhabitants a better conditions of life.
Location: in the center, on the Abai Avenue, close to the technical school.

It is worth to mention that quiet a few habitation blocks in the center have been ''walled'' to apparently prevent squatting or other kind of illegal habitation. These building left empty may reflect the "relocation" of some inhabitants in more modern constructions combined with a large exodus of people leaving Baikonur in the mid 90 ies?...

Between these extreme, devastated, renovated and walled blocks, the picture below likely represents the average of the habitation in Baikonur.
Location: in the street opposite to the Orthodox Church, East side of the town.

Some higher constructions have been erected in the late 70ies to respond at the time to the growth of the city which was renamed Leninsk in 1968.
Location: "Microrayon" area, in the South/west part of the city.

View on the other side, from the play ground.

This model of construction is fundamentally not very different from what has massively been built in most of the countries of the European Union after 1950. The big difference with the communist countries is likely the maintenance and the renovation process...

But there are also some "cosy" houses in the old center of Baikonur, like on the Arbat for instance

or close to it, near Shubnikov street,

where you may feel that architects also wanted to add a touch of aesthetics to the pure functionality of their construction style. Here a 'glass canopy'' (in wrought iron) over the steps,

and here, some carved or molded ornaments on the facade.

Few other questions may come after the outer appearance, such as:
  • Are these apartments nicely configured to accommodate families?
  • Are there technically better equipped and maintained inside than outside?
  • how interiors can be decorated to forget these austere facades?
May be quiet interesting topics for students in Architecture...

dimanche 14 mars 2010

no comment






Baikonur City 13/03/2010 - 17:59

vendredi 12 mars 2010

Gagarin's Summer House

This is may be the simplest and the most charming monument of the Baikonur city. The Gagarin's Summer House (or Гагаринская беседка) sits on the Syr Daria bank. It is enclosed in a little park together with an hotel for VIPs. The whole area is under military control and an authorisation is needed to visit it.
Once you got it, you will first meet with the watcher and his dog (Foo) at the gate.
Then, just follow the dog which is so enthusiastic and proud to take the lead in order to show visitors a place it knows by heart...

The Gagarin's summer house is an open wooden structure, slightly elevated, painted in light blue and white, organized along a long North/South corridor gallery.

There are two bowed observatory platforms, one at each extremity.

Despite the kiosk-like appearance, the purpose here is not to shelter a wind music ensemble "al fresco", but rather to offer a gorgeous panorama on the Syr Daria river and, beyond it, on the Kazakh steppe.

credits: Richard
Outside, a central staircase permits to get down almost to the river.

Did something special happened here?
Yes. On the 10th of April 1961 an ad hoc commission met at this place and decided who, from Titov or Gagarin , would fly the 1st manned mission in mankind history 48 hours later...

credits: Richard
History is gone but nowadays stays a delicate piece of architecture which contrasts so much with the traditional massive constructions from the "Soviet era".
To find the way back, don't worry, just follow Foo trough the little park,

You will retrieve the way to the gate.
When I told the master that his dog reminded me the wolf of "Peter and the Wolf", the Prokofiev's musical tale, he just laughed loudly. As long as I have forgotten his name, I decided then to call him "Dedushka'' (grand father).

Dedushka is one of the most sympathetic person I met in Baikonur. After the short conversation we had, he invited me to come back at spring when the trees and flowers of the garden provides more colours.
I am glad to share this invitation with other CS-2 colleagues if we are still there.

Despite all these explanations, I still don't have a clue why this place is called "Gagarin's summer house"...